Choosing the Right Cat

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Linus31 Choosing the Right Cat

Linus our 3 month old kitten

Choosing and Caring for Your New Cat
Before choosing a new adult cat or kitten, it is important to take time to research and think about your options. A cat’s personality, age, and appearance, as well as the kinds of pets you already have at home, are all things you should keep in mind when choosing a cat. And if you’ve never owned a cat before, it’s also important to know in advance exactly what taking care of your new cat will involve.

What age and type of cat should I get?

In choosing a cat, you must first decide whether you want to bring home a kitten, a juvenile, or an adult. Generally, kittens are curious, playful, and energetic. You get to watch them grow and mature, and can influence the development of their personality. A kitten may also be more readily accepted by pets that you already have. An adult cat’s personality is already established, so you’ll have a better idea of what kind of pet it will be in your home situation. Adult cats also usually require less intensive care and supervision than kittens or juveniles do.

A second thing to consider in choosing a cat is whether you want a pedigreed or a mixed-breed animal. Mixed-breed cats are generally categorized as either domestic shorthairs or domestic longhairs. Mixed-breed and pedigreed cats both can be excellent companions. The greatest advantage of getting a pedigreed kitten or adult is that its size, appearance, and to some extent, personality, are likely to fit the profile of its particular breed. With a mixed-breed kitten, you will be unable to predict its adult size and appearance as accurately.

Many of these considerations come down to personal preference. Truly, the most important factor in choosing a cat is to determine how healthy it is.

How can I tell if a cat is healthy and friendly?

There are several visible indicators of good health and temperament. Healthy cats should have clear, bright eyes with little or no tearing, and the nostrils should be clean. Runny eyes, sneezing, or a nasal discharge can indicate a respiratory infection. The inside of the cat’s ears should be clean and free of any discharge. A black, tar-like discharge in the ear canal usually indicates an ear-mite infestation; a pus-like discharge may be visible in the ear canal if there is a bacterial or yeast infection. The mouth and gums should be pink, with no evidence of ulcers or sores. The cat’s coat should be glossy, and there should be no bare spots, dry skin, dandruff, or any evidence of external parasites. The cat should not be too thin or have a protruding belly, because either condition can indicate the presence of internal parasites or some other medical disorder. If possible, make sure the cat’s feces appear to be normal and well formed.

The cat should be friendly and comfortable with people. A physically sound kitten is active, bright, responsive, rambunctious, and eager to join in play. Beware of a cat that frequently runs away and hides, or that appears lethargic and sleeps more than seems normal.

What about litter boxes and food dishes?

Before bringing your new cat home, make sure that you already have the basic provisions it will need. First, your cat must have access to a litter box. Cats are naturally fastidious, and most will instinctively use a litter box. The litter box can be simple or extravagant, but most cats prefer simple boxes without hoods. Keep in mind that kittens will need a box that’s low enough for them to enter easily. Unscented, fine-textured litter is preferred by the majority of cats. At first, you will choose the type of litter and litter box; later, your cat may demonstrate its preferences.

Be sure to keep the litter box and surrounding area clean, and change the litter frequently. Cats may avoid a litter-box area that isn’t clean. Also, providing just one litter box may not be sufficient. Animal behaviorists suggest providing as many boxes as you have cats, plus one. For example, if you have two cats, you should have three litter boxes. (For more-detailed information on litter and boxes, see our brochure Feline Behavior Problems: House Soiling.)

Your new cat also will need separate food and water dishes, kept far away from the litter-box area, to avoid contamination. It is important to keep the dishes clean, and the contents fresh. Cats may reject old food or stale water.

Will I need a scratching post?

Because scratching on objects is a normal marking behavior for cats, it is difficult to stop or even curb. However, cats can be taught to claw appropriate objects like scratching posts. Once you’ve figured out your cat’s preferred scratching materials and orientation, you’ll be better equipped to buy a suitable scratching substitute. For example, if your cat likes to scratch on furniture, a vertical carpet-covered post might be a good choice. But a cat that likes the horizontal motion of scratching on a floor carpet may be more likely to use a flattened cardboard box or a log placed on its side. A cat that scratches on drapes would probably prefer a vertical post tall enough for a long stretch, such as those that mount on a wall or door. Take your cat to the new scratching area or object that you’ve approved, and reward the cat with treats, strokes, and praise for using it. (For more information, see our brochure Feline Behavior Problems: Destructive Behavior.)

What should I feed my new cat?

What to feed, how much to feed, and how often to feed are common concerns of first-time cat owners. First, you should find out what your new cat has been eating. Even if you don’t expect to stay with that diet, you should continue feeding some of the old food as you gradually switch to the new. Whether you feed dry, canned, or semi-moist food, be sure to purchase a product that meets the standards established (preferably through animal-feeding trials) by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). The food package’s nutrition labels should provide this kind of information.

If your cat is eating a diet that meets the AAFCO standards (see www.aafco.org), you can be assured that it is receiving an adequate supply of vitamins and minerals. Therefore, the use of vitamin and mineral supplements is unnecessary. In fact, the addition of a supplement without a veterinarian’s approval may actually harm your cat. (For more-detailed information on nutrition, see our brochure Feeding Your Cat.)

What about grooming?

Grooming is much easier if you begin the procedure when your cat is young. The cat will grow to accept grooming as a pleasant routine rather than as a desperation-based chore. A good brush or a steel comb is a necessity for any cat owner. By brushing or combing your cat regularly, you can keep its hair coat clean, shiny, and sleek. Any loose fur removed during grooming will not wind up on the furniture, and your cat will have fewer problems with fur accumulating in the gastrointestinal tract, leading to hairball formation. An extra benefit is that by regularly grooming your cat, you have an opportunity to examine its skin for parasites or disease.

A good set of nail clippers is another necessity for any cat owner. Regular trimming of nails reduces the likelihood of damage caused by sharp claws, and lessens the possibility of a nail growing into the foot pad and causing infection. If you start the routine early on, you will find the task becomes easier as your cat gets older. Ask your veterinarian for a lesson on how to clip nails (and/or view our online video Trimming Your Cat’s Claws).

What veterinary care will my new cat need?

When you are getting a cat from its current owner, you should ask about prior vaccinations, nutrition, parasite control, and grooming. Any new cat should be checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible after coming home with you. If you already have other cats at home, and especially if the newcomer’s health history is not known, keep the new cat separated from your other cats until your veterinarian has had a chance to examine it. If no health history is available, your veterinarian will likely run a few tests to determine that your new cat is free from disease. One of the first may be a test for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV). Feline leukemia virus and FIV weaken the immune system, leaving the cat vulnerable to secondary infections and cancer.

In addition to testing for these diseases, your veterinarian will also likely analyze a fecal sample to test for intestinal parasites. Most intestinal parasites deprive the infected cat of important nutrition, causing weakness and susceptibility to viral or bacterial infections. Keeping your cat free of parasites is important for its long-term health. Occasionally, an owner may see in vomit or in feces an intestinal parasite that resembles a white threadlike worm, or the parasite may resemble a rice grain near the cat’s tail. If your cat is infected, proper medication should be obtained from your veterinarian, and a fecal sample should be checked after treatment to ensure that the parasites have been eliminated. (For more-detailed information, see our brochures Gastrointestinal Parasites of Cats and Toxoplasmosis.)

During the physical examination, your veterinarian will also check your new cat for external parasites, such as fleas, ticks, and mites. External parasites cause the most-common skin disorders of cats and can transmit other diseases, such as Lyme disease. Your veterinarian can provide effective treatments and control methods for your cat’s external parasites.

What about vaccines?

A series of vaccines for kittens and regularly scheduled vaccines for adult cats are one of the best ways to ensure that your cat is protected from deadly infectious feline diseases. Vaccines help prepare a cat’s immune system to fend off invasion by a particular disease-causing organism. Vaccines contain antigens, which to the immune system “look” like the organism but don’t cause disease. When a vaccine is administered, the immune system mounts a protective response, so if your cat is subsequently exposed to the disease-causing organism, its immune system is prepared either to prevent infection or to reduce the severity of the disease.

The most-common combination vaccine, usually called FVRCP, protects your cat against three diseases: feline panleukopenia, feline viral rhinotracheitis, and disease caused by feline calicivirus. Feline panleukopenia-also called feline distemper-is a highly contagious and deadly viral disease of cats. Until recently, panleukopenia was the most-serious infectious disease of cats, claiming the lives of thousands every year.

Thanks to currently available, highly effective vaccines, panleukopenia is now considered to be an uncommon disease. Upper-respiratory-tract viruses are extremely common in cats. The two most-common causes of these diseases are feline herpes virus (the cause of feline viral rhinotracheitis) and feline calicivirus. All cats are very likely to be exposed to these viruses and should be vaccinated to provide protection.

Generally, the first FVRCP vaccination is given when your cat is six to eight weeks old. The vaccine is then repeated (or “boosted”) at three- to four-week intervals until the kitten is sixteen weeks old. After this initial vaccination series, boosters are given one year later and then every three years, to keep the cat protected.

Your cat should also be vaccinated against rabies-in fact, rabies vaccination is required by law in many states. The vaccine should be given when the cat is eight to twelve weeks old (depending on the vaccine type), then one year later. Thereafter, the vaccine should be given every one to three years, again depending on the vaccine type and the local rabies-vaccination requirements.

Vaccines can also help protect your cat against a number of other infectious agents, including feline leukemia virus (FeLV). Consult with your veterinarian to decide which vaccines might be beneficial to your cat. (For additional information, see our brochure Feline Vaccines: Benefits and Risks.)

When should I have my cat spayed or neutered?

Traditionally, cats are spayed or neutered at six months of age or older. However, some veterinarians recommend performing the procedure at an earlier age, to further ensure against unwanted pregnancies. Spaying-or ovariohysterectomy-is the surgical removal of the female reproductive organs (ovaries, oviducts, and uterus). It is a recommended procedure for all female cats that will not be used in a breeding program. Besides helping to decrease overpopulation, removing a female’s reproductive organs eliminates the behaviors associated with the heat cycle, such as howling and restlessness. Spaying also greatly reduces the incidence of mammary cancer.

Neutering-or castration-is the surgical removal of parts of the male reproductive organs (testes, epididymis, and parts of the vas deferens). The benefits, besides preventing impregnation of female cats, include the reduction in the male of excessive aggressiveness, urine spraying, and the pungent odor of intact-male urine.

How will I know in the future if my cat is sick and needs treatment?

Even provided with balanced nutrition and a good amount of love and attention, cats can still get sick. By spotting the signs, you can ensure that your cat gets the proper medical care. A sick cat often has a dull and patchy hair coat, because its skin is one of the first systems to be affected by disease. Another sign of illness is a lack of appetite. Persistent and severe vomiting and/or prolonged diarrhea are sure signs of illness. Red, watery eyes, which may be accompanied by nasal discharge or sneezing, also can indicate problems. Straining to urinate, bloody urine, or frequent urination signify illness and should be treated immediately. Any swelling that appears rapidly or continues to increase in size over time is a cause for concern.

In short, be observant and use good judgment with regard to your cat’s health and threats to it. When in doubt, a simple telephone call to your veterinarian can usually determine if your cat should be examined.
This brochure was prepared by the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, New York 14853-6401. The center is committed to improving the health of cats by developing methods to prevent or cure feline diseases and by providing continuing education to veterinarians and cat owners. Much of that work is made possible by the financial support of friends. ©2007 by Cornell University. All rights reserved. For more information, visit our web site: www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc or call us at 607-253-3414.

Food Allergy

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itchy dog Food Allergy


Your Pet’s Itchy Skin

Itchy skin in the small animal is often more than just a minor annoyance. Red, oozing bald patches; rashes; and large expanses of hair loss are unfortunate markers of very real discomfort for which a cause should be sought and dealt with.

The food allergy is one of the itchiest conditions known to cats and dogs. Animals eat a variety of processed food proteins, fillers, and colorings that are further processed inside their bodies. Proteins may be combined or changed into substances recognized by the immune system as foreign invaders to be attacked. The resulting inflammation may target the gastrointestinal (GI) tract or other organ systems, but in dogs and cats it is the skin that most often suffers from this immunologic activity.

Many people erroneously assume itching due to food allergy requires a recent diet change of some sort. In fact, the opposite is true.

Food allergy requires time to develop; most animals have been eating the offending food for years with no trouble.

What Kind of Allergy?

Sarcoptic mange and inhalant allergy (also known as atopy) are the two conditions which must be distinguished from food allergy as the treatment approach to each is markedly different. Much time and money can be wasted pursuing the wrong problem.

Please consider the following clues that contribute to pointing us towards the food allergy as a diagnosis. Your pet demonstrates:

Your pet has been treated for sarcoptic mange without any positive change.
Your pet’s itchiness is not and has never been a seasonal problem.
Your pet has responded poorly or only partially to cortisone-type medications.
Your pet has had a skin biopsy demonstrating changes often associated with allergy or, more specifically, food allergy.
A lesion distribution pattern that is common for food allergy (see illustration above).
Your pet did not have skin issues before age 5 or 6.
Any of the above findings or observations warrant pursuit of food allergy.

Note that three of the above four criteria relate to what you, the owner, observe at home. Trouble results when the veterinarian must speak to different family members about the pet and there is disagreement in their observation of the pet at home. It is best to have one person, preferably the one who has the most contact with the pet, be the spokesperson and make the relevant judgments.

The Flea Factor

Some animals have many allergies. It would not be particularly unusual for an animal with a food or inhalant allergy
Flea

to also be allergic to flea bites, especially considering that flea bite allergy is extremely common among pets. Because allergies add to each other, it is possible that a food-allergic dog will not itch if its fleas are controlled. Since new technology has made flea control safe and convenient, it is especially important (and no longer difficult) to see that fleas are not complicating a pet’s itching problem.

Ensure immaculate flea control for any itchy pet!

See more information on flea biology and flea control.

How to Deal with the Food Allergy Suspect: The Hypoallergenic Diet Trial

The Basic Principle

To determine whether or not a food allergy or intolerance is causing the skin problem, a hypoallergenic diet is fed for a set period of time. If the pet recovers, the original diet is fed for up to two weeks to see if itching resumes. If we see recovery with the test diet and itch with the original diet, then food allergy is diagnosed and the pet is returned to either the test diet or another appropriate commercial food indefinitely.

What is a Good Hypoallergenic Diet?

There are two approaches to this question. Obviously, the test diet must be of a food source that the patient could not possibly be allergic to. The traditional method is the use of a novel (new to the pet) protein and carbohydrate source; that is, something the pet has never eaten before. In the past, lamb has been the protein source of choice as American pet food companies had traditionally failed to produce lamb-based pet foods. Unfortunately, recent production of lamb and rice-based foods has removed lamb from the acceptable hypoallergenic diet list for most pets.

Fortunately, many pet food companies have discerned the need for diets using unusual protein and carbohydrate sources with a minimum of additives. Foods can be obtained based on venison and potato, fish and potato, egg and rice, duck and pea, and even kangaroo. Diets used for allergy trials must contain basically one protein and one carbohydrate source and neither can be something the pet has had before. Recently several diets that include duck, venison, and so on have been released to the general market. Be aware of foods that contain these ingredients because these ingredients will not be useable for future diet trials if they were ever used in the pet’s regular food.

It is important that no unnecessary medications be given during the diet trial. No edible chew toys (such as rawhides or bones) should be given. Treats must be based on the same food sources as the test diet. (Beware of rice cakes, though, as wheat is commonly used as a filler.) Chewable heartworm preventives should be replaced with tablets.

Home cooking was originally the only option felt to be appropriately free of allergens but for most animals these special commercial foods are adequate. Occasionally home cooking ends up being necessary after all. Recipes for appropriate diets can be purchased through www.balanceit.com, a website set up by the American College of Veterinary Nutrition.

The Hydrolyzed Protein Method

Recently a new approach has been introduced using therapeutic diets made from hydrolyzed proteins. This means that a conventional protein source is used but the protein is broken down into molecules too small to excite the immune system. Some hydrolized diets are on the market; discuss with your veterinarian which is best for your pet.

How Long to Feed the Trial Diet

In the past, four weeks was thought to represent a complete trial period. More recent work has shown that only one food allergic dog in four will respond within this time frame and that a more appropriate trial period would be 10 to 12 weeks. This may be an extremely inconvenient period of time to home cook. Some veterinarians recommend a recheck appointment or a phone call after four weeks of diet trial and then again after 8 weeks. Eighty percent of food-allergic dogs will have responded to diet trial at least partially by six weeks. The Labrador retriever and cocker spaniel appear to require longer trials.

Most commercial diets used in food allergy trials have a 100% guarantee. This means that if your pet doesn’t like the food, the food can be returned for a complete refund, even if the bag is opened. This is especially helpful for feline patients, as cats are famous for being choosy about what they are willing to eat.

What to do if the Diet is Successful?

To confirm food allergy, return to the original food; itching resumes within 14 days generally if food allergy was truly the reason for the itchy skin. Many people do not want to take a chance of returning to itching if the patient is doing well; it is not unreasonable to simply stay with the test diet if the pet remains free of symptoms. Often it is difficult to remember 10 to 12 weeks later how itchy the dog used to be before the diet trial. The diet challenge helps make it more obvious whether the diet trial has worked or not.

It is possible to more specifically determine the identity of the offending foods after the pet is well. To do this, a pure protein source (such as cooked chicken, tofu, wheat flour or any other single food) is added to the test diet with each feeding. If the pet begins to itch within 2 weeks, then that protein source represents one of the pet’s allergens. Return to the test diet until the itching stops and try another pure protein source. If no itching results after two weeks of feeding a test protein, the pet is not allergic to this protein.

What to do if the Diet is Unsuccessful?

Assuming secondary skin infections have been controlled, an unsuccessful food trial is strongly suggestive that an inhalant allergy is the primary problem but there are some other considerations that should at least be mentioned:

Are you certain that the dog received no other food or substances orally during the trial?

Was sarcoptic mange ruled out?

Your pet may require a longer diet trial. Are you certain regarding the factor which pointed toward the food allergy?
If your pet has not been biopsied, now may be a good time. If an inhalant allergy has risen to the top of the list, symptomatic relief either via medication, baths with specific shampoos, or allergy shots will likely be necessary. Chronic itchiness can be extremely uncomfortable and prompt relief is our goal as well as yours.

Overweight Pets

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Obesity has become an extremely important health problem in the Western world, not just for humans but for dogs and cats as well. Obesity in pets is associated with joint problems, diabetes mellitus, respiratory compromise, and decreased life span; recent estimations suggest that up to 35% of dogs and cats in the U.S. suffer from obesity.
cat Overweight Pets


Why Obesity is Bad

A common justification for over-feeding treats is that a pet deserves a higher quality of life as a trade off for longevity. While this might on some level makes sense (after all, a pet munching on a treat is certainly getting a great deal of satisfaction from doing so), the other consequences do not make for higher life quality in the big picture. Here are some of problems that obese animals must contend with while they are not enjoying their treats and table scraps.

Arthritis
The over-weight animal has extra unneeded stress on joints, including the discs of the vertebrae. This extra stress leads to the progression of joint degeneration and creates more pain. Weight management alone decreases and can even eliminate the need for arthritis medications. The problem is compounded as joint pain leads to poorer mobility, which in turn leads to greater obesity.

Respiratory Compromise
The obese pet has a good inch or two of fat forming a constricting jacket around the chest. This makes the pet less able to take deep breaths as more work is required to move the respiratory muscles. Areas of the lung cannot fully inflate, so coughing results. The pet also overheats more easily. Many cases of tracheal collapse can be managed with only weight loss.

Diabetes Mellitus
Extra body fat leads to insulin resistance in cats just as it does in humans. In fact, obese cats have been found to have a 50% decrease in insulin sensitivity. Weight management is especially important in decreasing a cat’s risk for the development of diabetes mellitus.

Hepatic Lipidosis
When an overweight cat goes off food or partially off food because of illness or psychological stress, body fat is mobilized to provide calories. Unfortunately, the cat’s liver was not designed to process a large amount of body fat. The liver becomes infiltrated with fat and then fails. A stress that might have been relatively minor, such as a cold, becomes a life-threatening disaster.

Reduced Life Span
A study of age-matched Labrador retrievers found that dogs kept on the slender side of normal lived a median of 2.5 years longer than their overweight counterparts.

Unwillingness to Accept Therapeutic Diets
If the pet should develop a condition where a therapeutic diet is of great benefit, the pet that has been maintained primarily on a diet of table scraps may be unwilling to accept commercial pet food of any kind, much less a food modified to be beneficial for a specific disease process. This unwillingness will hamper treatment.

Increased Surgical/Anesthetic Risk
Obesity poses an extra anesthetic risk because drug dosing becomes less accurate. (It is hard to estimate a patient’s lean body mass for drug dosing if it is encased in a fat suit.) Furthermore, anesthesia is inherently suppressive to respiration and adding a constrictive jacket of fat only serves to make proper air exchange more challenging. And still further, surgery in the abdomen is hampered by the slippery nature of the extra fat as well as difficulty visualizing all the normal structures through the copious fat deposits. One never knows when a pet will require an emergency surgery (to say nothing of regular teeth cleanings).

So is the enjoyment of all those extra treats really worth it?

How did my Pet get so Fat when he doesn’t really Eat that much?

One might think weight management might be easier for a pet than it is for a human. After all, the pet relies completely on someone else for feeding and exercise so it should follow that if the humans in control can regulate feeding and exercise, the pet should lose weight. It seems like this would be true but, as with humans, there is tremendous individuality with how different pets store the food they have eaten. Beyond this, sometimes it is hard to know what a pet is eating or the owner may not have a good sense for how much should be fed. Here are some factors involved:

A cup of food depends on the cup
When food packages refer to a certain number of cups of kibble being appropriate for a certain body weight, they are referring to an actual measuring cup. This may seem obvious but many mugs, coffee cups, and other scooping cups may not be equal to a cup measure. If you do not have a cup measure, you can often get one from your veterinarian’s office as most manufacturers of reducing diets for pets provide free cup measures.

The package guidelines are just guidelines
Many packages of food include on their label some sort of feeding schedule that indicates how much food should be fed to a pet of a certain weight. This information is also available on most pet food web sites as well. The problem is that each pet is an individual and just as one person weighing 150 lbs can be obese and another person of the same weight may be skinny, the same is true of pets. These guidelines are meant as a starting point only. If your pet is too fat on the recommended feeding schedule, then you should reduce the amount of food or change to a diet that is higher in fiber so that a satisfying volume of food can still be eaten without adding calories.

Genetics
Some animals simply have the genes that predispose them to obesity. Dog breeds with genetic tendencies towards obesity include the: Golden Retriever, Cocker Spaniel, Dachshund, Beagle, Shetland Sheepdog, Boxer, Cairn Terrier, Basset Hound, Cairn Terrier, and Labrador Retriever.

Children at home
It is almost impossible to keep children from providing extra treats to their dog. This may include snacks spilled during play (pets have no “5 second rule”) or purposely feeding the pet unwanted food under the dining table. Similarly, pets that are allowed to roam (usually cats) often find food left out by neighbors, either to purposely feed their own pets or strays, or as unsecured trash. It is almost impossible to control the diet of an outdoor cat.

Slow metabolism
Some pets do not burn calories efficiently; they simply have a slow metabolism. This might be genetic as mentioned or it might be the result of a disease such as hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease. Testing for health problems such as these is helpful to get the best treatment for resolution of the obesity. It seems like increasing exercise and eating a healthier diet would be easy to accomplish for a pet but it generally does not turn out that way.

Underestimation of the power of treats
Many people express their affection for the pet by providing regular treats, and the pet happily obliges by begging or even performing cute behaviors. For some people, feeding treats to the pet constitutes a major part of the human-animal bond and they do not wish to give it up or reduce it. Pet treats are often high in calories, though, and four or five treats readily converts into an extra meal’s worth of added fat. Free feeding of dry food encourages the pet to snack as well; meal feeding represents better calorie control.

Neutering
Sterilizing a pet is good for public health (fewer strays means fewer dog bites, less public resources needed for animal shelters etc.), good for a better house pet (less urine marking, tendency to fight or roam), no unwanted litters, reduced risk of many diseases, etc. The change in the hormonal picture, though, creates a tendency to form more fat cells (creating increased fat storage capacity – especially in female cats), and typically slows metabolism.

What can be done: Diet and Exercise

This sounds simple but in fact when one simply tries to cut back on food, it just does not seem to work. As with humans, a more formal approach seems to work best. This means feeding a prescription diet made for weight loss (typically “lite” or “less active” diets are meant to prevent weight gain, not actually cause weight loss), feeding a measured amount, and coming in for regular weigh-ins at the vet’s office.

This means:

There must be control over what the obese pet eats. That’s easy enough if there is only one pet and roaming is not allowed, but trickier if there is more than one pet in the home. Use your ingenuity to feed the pets separately.

Feed in meals. Leaving food out encourages snacking. Feeding in meals makes it easier to feed multiple pets different foods or different amounts of food.

Commit to regular weigh ins. Know what the goal weight is and how long it should take to reach this goal/or how to tell if the pet is on target. It is important not to try to go too fast. If the weight loss is not on track, sometimes it is necessary to feed more rather than less. Your veterinarian can contact the clinical nutritionists at the pet food company so as to make the best recommendations.

Consider interactive toys that can be used when you are not home or where your own participation is minimal.
As an initial step in obesity management, be sure to rule out health issues that might specifically cause obesity.

For more specific information, consult your veterinarian.
Article from Veterinary Information Network by Dr. Wendy Brooks.

Worthy Organization of the Month

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Michelle Brownstein and the Henrietta Animal Hospital are proud members of the national non profit organization “Pets for Patriots’. If you are interested in the services provided by this group, would like to volunteer, or make a donation please click on this link.
http://www.petsforpatriots.org/Adopt/HenriettaAnimalHospital.aspx

What is Microchipping?

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Dog and cat microchipping is a simple procedure. A veterinarian simply injects a microchip for pets, about the size of a grain of rice (12mm), beneath the surface of your pets skin between the shoulder blades. The process is similar to a routine shot, takes only a few seconds, and your pet will not react any more than he would to a vaccination. No anesthetic is required.

A HomeAgain microchip is permanent pet ID. The microchip itself has no internal energy source, so it will last the life of your pet. It is read by passing a microchip scanner over the pets shoulder blades. The scanner emits a low radio frequency that provides the power necessary to transmit the microchips unique cat or dog ID code and positively identify the pet.
ha logo 2009 web 400x112 What is Microchipping?

HomeAgain is the only dog & cat microchipping product on the market today that has the Bio-Bond patented anti-migration feature to help ensure that the microchip will stay in place so that it may be easily located and scanned. If your pet gets lost and is taken to an animal shelter or veterinarian, they will scan the microchip to read its unique dog or cat ID code. This is the number used by HomeAgain to identify the pet and retrieve your contact information, which is used to contact you and reunite you with your pet.

Canine Influenza

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Fast Facts About Canine Influenza
It seemed to appear without warning. Newspapers, television news programs and Internet websites are filled with stories about canine influenza, a flu-like disease that seems to be sweeping the country. How new is canine influenza? How did it develop? How is it spread? How do veterinarians treat it? And, are there a few, common sense precautions that may lessen your pet’s risk? To answer your questions, AAHA compiled the most current information from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) and researchers in the field.

How did canine influenza develop?
Canine influenza appears to be related to an influenza strain that affects horses. At some point, the virus mutated and the new strain made the leap from horses to dogs.

Is canine influenza a new disease?
No, canine influenza was diagnosed initially in 2004. According to a September 26, 2005, CDC media briefing, the first evidence of canine influenza in companion dogs was documented in spring 2005 when shelters, boarding facilities, humane societies and veterinarians submitted samples from dogs suspected of carrying the disease.

Is my dog at risk?
Yes. All dogs are at risk and are susceptible to infection. There is a canine influenza vaccine. However, the vaccine doesn’t prevent the disease, it decreases the disease’s severity.

Is canine influenza fatal?
Usually not. Most dogs diagnosed with canine influenza experience a mild form of the disease. They usually suffer from a persistent cough that may last for as long as three weeks and may experience a yellowish nasal discharge that can be treated effectively with antibiotics. Dogs that experience a stronger version of canine influenza frequently have a high fever and exhibit increased respiratory rates and other indications of pneumonia. Currently, antibiotics treat this form of the disease successfully in about 95 percent of the cases.

How is canine influenza spread?
At present, canine influenza appears to be an airborne disease, much like kennel cough (Bordetella bronchiseptica). Physical contact between dogs does not seem to be required.

Can I catch canine influenza from my dog?
To date, there are no documented cases of humans contracting canine influenza from dogs.

How do I protect my dog?
A good rule of thumb is to assume that the greater the exposure your dog has to other dogs, the greater the chance of infection. If your dog socializes frequently with other dogs or is boarded at a kennel, the odds of exposure are greater than if your dog remains at home. Contact your veterinarian to see if a canine influenza vaccination is necessary.

Does this mean I shouldn’t take my dog to the groomer, doggie day care, the dog park, or a boarding facility?
That is a decision you need to make individually, balancing your needs and those of your animal with the potential risk. If your pet exhibits signs of a respiratory illness, be sure to contact your veterinarian.
Also, use groomers, day care sites and boarders with which you are familiar and at which you feel comfortable. You are entitled to ask about steps operators take to isolate any dogs that appear to be ill.

What are the symptoms of canine influenza?
The symptoms are very similar to kennel cough. The first indication is a cough that may last for as long as three weeks in spite of treatment with antibiotics. According to an advisory issued by the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine. Most dogs have a soft, moist cough, while others have a dry cough similar to that induced by Bordetella bronchiseptica/parainfluenza virus infection. Many dogs have purulent nasal discharge and a low-grade fever. The nasal discharge likely represents a secondary bacterial infection that quickly resolves with treatment with a broad-spectrum, bactericidal antibiotic.

What should I do if I suspect my dog has canine influenza?
Contact your veterinarian immediately. Be sure to tell your veterinarian if your dog has been boarded, sent to the groomer or involved in any social activities (dog park, doggie day care, etc.) within the last month.
Remember, coughing may be an indication of any of a variety of diseases. Your veterinarian is best qualified to make the diagnosis.

Is it safe to adopt a dog from a shelter?
Adopting a dog from a shelter is a wonderful way to acquire a pet and most shelters are now vaccinating dogs for canine influenza. Given that canine influenza is a contagious disease, be sure to take reasonable precautions, particularly if you have another dog at home. Those precautions may include:

Obtain your new pet from a shelter with which you are familiar and in which you have confidence.
Inquire about the shelter’s quarantine procedures. Ask if incoming animals are kept in a separate area during the quarantine period, and ask if the shelter avoids any cross-traffic between new animals and the general population until the quarantine period has elapsed.
Inspect the general population area for yourself when you walk through.
Ask if the shelter has experienced any cases of canine influenza; and ask how those cases were treated.
Finally, ask if the shelter vaccinate dogs for canine influenza.
What is the incubation period for canine influenza?
The incubation is approximately 2-5 days.

Custom Made Heartworm Prevention

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Henrietta Animal Hospital is dedicated to offering the best available products to your pet and continues to strive to stay on the cutting edge of new advances in veterinary medicine.

Most recently, we are able to prescribe “custom made” heartworm prevention. We have aligned with a veterinary pharmacy that is able to add specific compounds into your pets’ heartworm medication so that they get the most benefit from their monthly dose. Currently, our heartworm prevention prevents heartworm, hookworms and roundworm prevention. With the addition of two more compounds we can provide protection from harmful whipworms and tapeworms.

Please call 334-3800 and ask for more details. If you haven’t scheduled your dog’s heartworm test, please do so immediately. PLEASE remember that this test also identifies Lyme disease which continues to escalate in our area.!!!!

heartworms copy 295x300 Custom Made Heartworm Prevention

Adult worms in a dog's heart

Cats and Kittens for Adoption

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kats2 300x223 Cats and Kittens for Adoption

We have 7 beautiful cats and kittens all rescued from certain death at a NYC animal shelter. All are leukemia/FIV tested negative, micrchipped and vaccinated. Kittens over 14 weeks have been spayed and neutered.
Can you help them find a forever home???

Adopting from our rescue shelter is unlike other local groups. All our kittens and cats are leukemia AND FIV tested negative. No cat or kitten is is sent home with an obvious illness. And, unlike other local groups we ask only for a small donation to help defray fees for transportation from New York City, vaccinations, spaying and neutering, vaccinations etc.
A nominal donation is all we ask. And, it is TAX DEDUCTIBLE!!!
Please call us at 334-3800 if you are interested in becoming an adoptive home.

Tick Alert!

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We are seeing an alarming number of ticks in our area this year. Consequently, we are seeing more Lyme positive pets this year.Lyme is a serious and oftenn difficult disease to diagnose. It can be fatal to our pets and people as well. Plan ahead and make sure that your canine friends are protected with the Lyme vaccination and a Scalibor collar. Prevention is the key to a healthy pet. Schedule your appointment today! If you have feline friends that go outside, ask us for more information.
lyme map 01 Tick Alert!